Welting



FuRy l, 1941. w c VIZARD' 2,247,456

WELTING Filed May 16, 1940 Patented July 1, 1941 2 24x456 VELTINGWilliam C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor to Barbour Welting Company,Brockton, Mass, a co-partnership composed of Perley E. Barbour, WalterG. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application May 15, 194%], Serial No.335,528 9 Ciaims. (Cl. 12-445) This invention relates to welting forshoes, and or weight notwithstanding the thickness of the to its methodof manufacture, and more especially material entering into the flap. tothe production of beaded welting of the type In the formation of thebeads, as described imwherein a bead is formed on the upper face of themediately above, I propose to fold the flaps Welting by folding a flopof the material of the around or about what may be termed bead fillersWelting, the bead being supported and held in or cores and anotherfeature of the invention reposition at the inner edge of the weltextension sides in certain novel methods of production and by anintegral part of the flap. use of these cores during the forming of theIn order to provide sufiicient stock for forming beads as more fullydescribed hereinafter. the flap which is folded to provide the bead, aTo these and other ends the invention resides fillet must be used whichis wider than the finin the novel features and combinations of partsished Welt. In my prior Patents Nos. 2,142,228 to be hereafter describedand claimed, reference and 2,153,321 I have disclosed and claimedcerbeing had to the drawing in which:

tain methods of severing and slitting a double Figure l is a perspectiveView of a double fillet fillet in such manner that two single filletsare showing the method of slitting the same to form formed, the totalwidth of the two single fillets, two overlapping flaps in accordancewith one prior to folding of the flaps, being greater than form of theinvention;

the initial width of the double fillet before the Fig. 2 is an end viewof the fillet of Fig. 1 and same is slit and severed. In this way I havebeen showing one of the flaps raised ready for folding able to efiect agreat saving in the cost of manuto form a bead;

facture of welting as, where thousands and even Fig. 3 is an end view ofthe fillet of Fig. 1, in millions of yards of welting are made, thereduc this instance both flaps being raised and the bead tion of thewidth of a fillet even by a fraction fillers or cores assembled in placeready for foldof an inch will result in substantial reductions ing ofthe flaps into final position;

in cost. In certain aspects the present invention Fig. 4 is an end Viewof the fillet of Fig. 1 but may be regarded as an improvement over myshowing the beads completely shaped ready for prior patents and has asone of its principal obcutting of the fillet along a centrallongitudinal iects an improved method of manufacture of line into twostrands of welting; beaded welting from a double fillet wherein stillFig. 5 is a perspective View of a core piece further savings in stockare efiected. showing a method of slitting the same to form A feature ofthe invention resides in a method two lengths of stock suitable forforming the of slitting and severing a double fillet of stock to fillersor cores of the beads of Fig.

form two strands of welting wherein the width of Fi 5 iS an Grid V ew Ofa fil et Similar to that the double fillet used is reduced to a minimumof Fig. 1 but illustrating another method of cut and is no greater thanthe combined widths of the ng the dfiu fillet in alo i l na d ec o twostrands of finished welting formed thereto form two single filletstogether with a length from. of stock suitable for formation of thefillers or Welting for shoes is commonly made out of cores of the beads;

grain leather and one of the further objects of g- 7 i a perspectiveView illustrative o t e the invention is to bring about a, form ofbeaded -f=) manner in which the stock of Fig. 6 is slit to form weltingand a method of making the same wherethe two fillers or cores for thebeads;

in two strands of the same made from a double 's a perspective w Of adouble fillt fillet may be provided with beads, as ell s elt similar toFig. 1 but illustrating a modified methextensions, having substantiallyuniform grain 0d of slitting and cutting the fillet longitudinallyleather surfaces capable of matching the finish to form two singlefillets; of the upper leather. Fig. 9 is a perspective view illustrativeof the In order that the inner or sewing edge of the further treatmentof the single fillet at the left welting may not be unduly weakened bythe of Fig. 8 prior to forming-up of the bead; formation of the flapwhich is folded to form the ig- 1 1's a V ew S a to g. 9 butillustrative head, as well as to preserve grain leather surfaces .39 ofthe further treatment of the single fillet at the on the beads, it isproposed herein to make the right of F g- 8 prior to forming-up 0 t e aflaps relatively thin and one of the further feaand tures of theinvention resides in a form of bead F g. 11 s a perspective w a ve ofthe and method of making the same wherein the Welting after finalmolding as produced from the bead may be given a desired shape andthickness single fillet at the left of Fig. 8.

Referring now to the drawing and especially at present to Figs. 1 to 4inclusive which are illustrative of one method of practising theimproved method of manufacture of the invention, the reference numeralindicates, in general, a double fillet of grain leather to be severedinto two single fillets each of which is fashioned into a strand ofbeaded welting, it being understood that although as shown the fillet 20is provided with an upper surface 2| of grain leather, the principles ofthe invention may be applied to less costly welting materials as well asto grain leather.

The fillet 29 has a width which is twice the width of either of thesimilar individual strands of welting to be fashioned therefrom and inaccordance with the invention is first slit longitudinally and generallycentrally of its width to form two overlapping fiaps 22 and 23 one ofwhich is joined to the fillet along what will be the inner edge ofv thewelt extension of one of the strands of welting to be formed from thefillet, while the other flap is joined to the fillet at the inner edgeof the extension of the other strand of welting. It will be observedthat the flaps 22 and 23 are substantially coextensive in width, that isto say, prior to folding. of the flaps each extends across the filletsubstantially the full width of the other, each flap, in the instanceshown; tapering towards its outer or free end or edge.

Any suitable form of knife or knives may be used to slit the fillet toform the flaps 22 and 23, the fillet being slit or out along atransverse line 24 parallel to the upper surface 2i, to form the bottomface of flap 23, while the fillet is out along an upwardly slopingtransverse line 25 to form the bottom face of flap 22 and upper face offlap 23.

The depth of the cut 24 beneath the upper or grain surface 2| of thefillet will vary in accordance with the thickness of the fillet butnormally will be markedly less than one-half of the thickness thereof,lying either in or immediately below the fine grain texture at the grainsurface, the cut 25 being sharply inclined with respect to said surfaceand emerging therethrough along a line just inside the welt extension atthe right of Fig. 1. When the fillet is made of grain leather the upperface of the flap 22 will, of course, have a grain surface, while due tothe fact that the cut 25 lies almost wholly within the fine graintexture at or near the upper surface 2|, the upper face of flap 23 willhave a texture not difi ering greatly from that of flap 22.

After the simple cutting or slitting operations described above, theflaps are ready for forming-up into beads without further treatment andthose skilled. in the art will readily recognize the great simplicity ofthese preliminary operations as compared to prior methods, theelimination of further cutting or slitting steps resulting in aconsiderable saving in time and expense; moreover, it will be observedthat there is no waste stock. 7

The flaps are now broken upwardly and backwardly into the positionsillustrated in Fig. 3 whereupon the head fillers or cores 25 and 2"! maybe set in place in the angles formed between the flaps 22 and 23 and theshelf 28. formed by the parallel cut 24, the fiaps being folded ormolded around the bead cores into the position shown more particularlyin Fig. 4, the thin outer ends of the flaps being pressed into contactwith the shelf 23. It will be under stood that the cores 26 and 21 arecemented in place in the angles formed by the erected fiaps while thelatter are cemented not only to the cores but to the shelf 28 as well.

The channels 29 and 30, for the inseam stitches, may be out eitherbefore or after the fillet is out along the central vertical line iii toform the two strands 3'2 and 33 of finished welting.

The bead cores may vary according to the final shape of the beaddesired, those illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 being conveniently formedout of a strand of stock 34 (Fig. 5) of square crosssectional shape, thestock being slit along a diagonal line 35 to form the two cores oftriangular cross-sectional shape.

The form of the invention shown in. Fig. 6 differs principally from thatof Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive in that, before the beads are formedup, thetwo strands of welting 35 and 31 are severed from one another by acentral longitudinally directed inverted V-shape out which removes fromthe fillet a length of stock 38 of triangular cross-sectional shapewhich may be slit v along the line 39 to form the bead cores. In thisform of the invention the bead cores are not only formed from the filletitself but the removal of the material from the inside lower corners ofthe sewing edges 40 and 4| leaves the latter desirably somewhat moreflexible.

Figs. 8 to 11 inclusive illustrate a modified method not only of cuttinga double fillet into two single fillets with. bead forming flaps butlikewise in the method of production of the bead cores. In this case adouble fillet 42, of a width equal to the combined widths of the twostrands of finished welting fashioned therefrom, is first severed alongits central line as to produce the two single fillets 43 and M each ofsufficient width for forming up a grain covered bead. The severing isaccomplished by a three part out comprising a lower vertical bar 45, ahorizontal center bar 66 and an oblique upper bar il, the latteremerging through the upper grain surface 48 while the vertical baremerges through the lower flesh surface 49. The buried center bar 46lies at a plane below the upper or grain. surface 48 a distance lessthan half the thickness of the fillet and preferably immediately belowthe fine grain texture of said surface and extends horizontally from theupper end of the vertically directed bar a distance to the right to behereinafter set forth, the upper bar extending obliquely upwardly fromthe outer end of the center bar, the upper bar being about twice as longas the center bar.

The lower vertical bar passes longitudinally through the filletcentrally of the width of the latter and in cooperation with the otherbars divides the fillet into two single fillets 43 and 44, each havingan outwardly extending tapered lip at its upper inner edge. The amountof extension of these lips will vary in accordance with the width of thewelting, those of A welting, for example, extending outwardly 1%". Itwill be observed that the lip 5|! of the fillet 43 is provided with anupper face in the plane of the upper surface of the fillet and a lowerface which slopes downwardly and inwardly, whil the lip 5| of fillet 24is provided with an upper face which slopes downwardly and outwardly anda lower face which is parallel to the upper surface of the fillet.

To prepare either of said single fillets for forming-up into beadedwelting as shown in Fig. 11, a single further cutting operation isrequired, each fillet being slit horizontally inwardly at the bottomedge of its respective lip to a point adjacent the inner edge of thewelt extension, the knife used for said cutting operation having acutting edge suitable for forming a longitudinally directed groove 52 inthe upper face of the shelf 57, the groove being half way between thelateral edges of said face and said knife, in cutting the groove,leaving a bead Ed on the under sides of the flaps 55 and 56, which beadsserve as fillers or cores for th welt beading when the latter isformed-up.

It will be noted that in this case the finished beads are somewhatsmaller than in the forms shown in Figs. 1 to 7 inclusive. For thisreason the flaps do not need to be as wide as those of Figs. 1 to 4inclusive and Fig. 6. Since the lip 58 only partially overlies the lip5!, the latter may have an intact grain surface of suflicient area tocompletely cover the exposed surfaces of the bead formed from the flap55. Upon completing the formation of the flaps '55 and 56 by the lateralincisions, the flaps are broken upwardly and backwardly for applicationof cement whereupon the moulder may set the cores 54 back into thecorners formed by the flaps and the shelves 5? and 58, simultaneouslyfolding the flaps and pressing the tapered outer edges thereof down intoplace on the shelves, crushing the welt to the final shape shown in Fig.11. Preferably the grooves 52 are removed and the channels 59, for theinseam stitches, formed by molding the channels 59 in the welting, thematerial thereof being forced inwardly to fill the grooves 52.

In each of the several forms of the invention illustrated, the doublefillet is of a width equal to the combined widths of the finishedstrands of Weltlng formed therefrom and it will be observed that thetapered flaps, when cemented in place, form inner sewing edges on theWelting which are somewhat thinner than the welt extensions and taperoutwardly in a direction forming suitable attachment faces for a lastedi upper.

The invention in its several forms is characterized by the fact that theflaps may be varied considerably in width to suit the size and weight ofthe beads to be formed and in all cases may be carried out with aminimum width of fillet and a complete lack of wasted stock. Thoseskilled in the art will recognize that through the use of bead fillersor cores of proper cross-sectional shapes, the shapes of the beads maybe greatly varied without, however, the use of complicated cutting andslitting operations which have heretofore been necessary in the art.

While I have shown and described certain preferred forms which theinvention may take, it will be understood that the same is not limitedto the precise details described but is capable of variation andmodification within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of producing two welt strips from a double fillet of lesswidth than the combined width of stock in single fillets required forthe two beaded welts made from said strips, each strip being of greateroverall width than one-half of the width of said fillet, comprisingsevering the fillet longitudinally by co-operating cuts including a cutlying in a plane parallel tothe upper face of the fillet and extendingat either side of the center line of the fillet to points adjacent theinner edges of the welt extensions of the welt strips, a cut lying in aplane oblique to the upper face of the fillet and extending upwardlyfrom the parallel cut and emerging from said upper face alon a linewhich defines the overall width of one of the singlev fillets, theoblique cut intersecting the parallel cut to define the width of theother fillet, and a cut extending from the parallel cut at the center ofthe fillet towards and emerging through the bottom face of the fillet.

2. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut intersectsthe parallel cut intermediate the ends of the latter.

3. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique out extendssubstantially equal distances towards either side of the center line ofthe fillet and intersects the parallel cut intermediate the ends of thelatter.

4. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut intersectsthe parallel cut at one of the side dges of the latter.

5. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut extendssubstantially equal distances towards either side of the center line ofthe fillet and intersects the parallel cut at one of the side edges ofthe latter.

6. The method according to claim 1 in which the parallel cut lies closerto the upper face of the fillet than to the lower face.

7. The method according to claim 1 in which the last named cut is ofinverted !shape, the apex of the lying in the parallel cut.

8. The method according to claim 1 in which the last named cut is normalto the bottom face of the fillet and midway between the side edgesthereof.

9. The method of making beaded welting which comprises forming a flap byslitting the fillet longitudinally through an edge face of the filletsubstantially parallel to the upper face thereof, and simultaneouslyforming a longitudinal rib on the innerface of the flap and a groove onthe opposed face of the shelf underlying the fiap, the unslit portion ofthe fillet forming the welt extension, lifting the flap and cementingthe exposed faces, folding the flap and simultaneously forcing the ribinto the corner formed by the lifted flap toform a bead and pressing theremainder of the flap into contact with the face of the fillet formed bythe slit.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

